Menagerie of Friends

Menagerie of Friends
by Robert Duncan

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Nesting Box Herbs - Chicken Aromatherapy

Check out the full article by Lisa at Fresh Eggs Daily Blog:
http://fresh-eggs-daily.blogspot.com/2012/01/nesting-box-herbs-chicken-aromatherapy.html


Presumably you have been following my blog and have already decided to grow the chickens their own herb garden this spring in order to brew herbal teas for them.  Well, here's another way to put the herbs to good use: in your nesting boxes. They have amazing health and well-being benefits...and also provide a bit of aromatherapy for your chickens. 

 My coop never smelled so good until I started adding an herbal blend that includes mint, basil, lemon balm, lavender and rose petals.  The first time I put the herbs into the nesting boxes, one of my hens actually fell asleep after laying her egg. Now that's one relaxed hen !




Fresh or dried herbs in your nesting boxes not only work as insecticides, but also have anti-bacterial properties, and can act as natural wormers, anti-parasitics, stress relievers and laying stimulants.  They will benefit your laying hens, broody hens and newborn chicks.  They will help a laying hen feel safe and relaxed while she is sitting, and calm a broody hen, as well as repel rodents, flies and other parasites. The chickens (and chicks) will also eat some of the herbs, thereby garnering even more health benefits from them.  Plus they look so pretty !


Research has shown that wild birds will line their nests with fresh herbs and flowers, especially those that contain essential oils. The newly hatched baby birds benefit by rubbing against these herbs in the first few days of life.  Same applies to baby chicks.


Here is a partial list of common herbs and flowers and their beneficial properties:

Basil - antibacterial, mucus membrane health
Catnip - sedative, insecticide
Cilantro - antioxidant, fungicide, builds strong bones, high in Vitamin A for vision and Vitamin K for blood clotting
Dill - antioxidant, relaxant, respiratory health
Fennel -laying stimulant
Garlic - laying stimulant
Lavender - stress reliever, increases blood circulation, highly aromatic, insecticide
Lemon Balm - stress reliever, antibacterial, highly aromatic
Marigold - laying stimulant
Marjoram - lay stimulant
Nasturtium - laying stimulant, antiseptic, antibiotic, insecticide, wormer
Oregano - combats coccidia, salmonella, infectious bronchitis, avian flue, blackhead and e-coli
Parsley - high in vitamins, aids in blood vessel development, laying stimulant
Peppermint - anti-parasitic, insecticide
Pineapple Sage - aids nervous system, highly aromatic
Rose Petals - highly aromatic, high in Vitamin C
Rosemary - pain relief, respiratory health, insecticide
Sage - antioxidant, anti-parasitic
Spearmint - antiseptic, insecticide, stimulates nerve, brain and blood functions
Tarragon - antioxidant
Thyme - respiratory health, antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-parasitic


Toss a few handfuls of mixed cut herbs into your nesting boxes and refresh them as needed.  Your chickens will benefit from them and you will enjoy how nice your coop smells.  


I plant various different types of herbs each spring because of their many uses. In addition to using the herbs for teas and in the nesting boxes, I also enjoy cooking with fresh herbs. There's nothing like going out back and picking a handful of fresh basil for pesto, oregano for homemade pizza or mint to garnish a slice of cheesecake.  Herbs are easy to grow, do well in most areas of the country and can even be grown on your kitchen windowsill in the winter.


I also dry excess herbs at the end of the summer to use in the nesting boxes during the winter.


I hope this has given you some more ideas for raising happy, healthy hens....Happy Growing !

I Like to Play in the Dirt!

Friday, February 3, 2012

Chicken Breeds

Here is some basic information on breeds to help you pick out your chicks!  This is by all means not a complete list of breeds, but some of the more popular...

Bantam (or Banty) is a poultry term used to descibe a small variety of chicken. A bantam is not a breed, but rather refers to size. Bantams are usually one fourth to one fifth the size of a standard chicken breed, and their eggs are likewise smaller. Many standard chicken breeds have a bantam counterpart, sometimes called "miniatures". A "true bantam" has no standard-breed (large) counterpart.

Ameracauna - Blue/Green Eggs


Barred Rock - Brown Eggs


Black Australorp - Light Brown Eggs


Buff Orpington - Brown Eggs


Light Brahma - Light Brown/Brown Eggs


New Hampshire Red - Brown/Darker Brown Eggs


Red Laced Blue Wyandotte - Light Brown Eggs


Rhode Island Red - Dark Brown/Brown


Sexlink  - Brown Eggs


White Leghorn - White Eggs


White Plymouth Rock - Light Brown Eggs


Wyandotte - Light Brown Eggs



Thursday, February 2, 2012

Baby Chick Season!


Baby Chicks4 Baby Chicks and Ducks
Hey Folks!

It's that time of year when we get excited to welcome new baby chicks...and they are sooo much fun!  There are many people who are getting chicks for the first time, and maybe you just have not had them in awhile and need a little "Chicken 101" refresher course.  Please don't hesitate to call your local Skagit Farmers Supply Country Store with questions, or just stop by and visit us!

CHICK CARE

Brooder House, Chicken Corral, or Plastic Tub

Bedding: Pine Shavings (Gem Bale) or Straw

·        Bedding such as shavings or straw must be provided for your chicks. Your bedding should be at least two inches deep. Keep your bedding dry and change as necessary to provide the chicks with a clean growing environment.  Cedar shavings burn their feet, so only use pine.

Feeders & Waterers

Heat Lamp:

·        Chicks require an area of space that has a temperature of 90-95 degrees. They also need to get away from the heat if they get too hot. The coolest area of your brooder should be no less than 70 degrees. Usually a 250 watt heat lamp per 25 birds is required to start with. Hang your heat light 24 inches off the ground in the center of your brooding area. Check the temperature at the bird level with a thermometer. This will tell you if you need to provide more heat or raise your heat source to lower your temperature. As your chicks grow, you will need to lower your brooding temperature, Decrease your temperature by 5 degrees per week until your whole brooding area is 70 degrees. Then maintain your temperature until your birds are fully feathered. Remember, watch your birds. If they are huddling together, they are probably too cold. If they are away from the heat as far as they can get, they are too hot. Chicks all in a corner suggests that you may have a draft. Chicks spread around and drinking and eating happily are just right. Start warming your brooder pen at least two days before birds arrive. Check your temperature regularly once chicks have arrived.

·         Red Bulb – provides heat, calming to young chicks and camouflages any blood from pecking

·         Clear Bulb – provides heat and in the winter more “hours” of daylight

Feed:

·       Chicks must be provided with feed and water as soon as you receive them.

·        Upon arrival, it is a good practice to dip the bird’s beak into the water. This will show the bird where the water is. Provide one 24 inch feeder and one gallon chick fount for each twenty-five chicks. Keep your feeders and waterers close to the heat source. Chicks will not stray far from the heat to eat and drink. Change your water often and keep your feeders clean. This will keep your chicks healthy. Provide day old chicks, ducks and geese with Purina Start and Grow or Flock Raiser for a mixed flock. Turkeys and Game birds require a higher protein feed such as Flock Raiser. Ask us for the proper feed. 

·         Chick Grit for up to 10 weeks.

·         Scratch Grain

Medicated Feed: Purina Start and Grow, we do have non-medicated Start and Grow

·         Helps prevent coccidiosis in chickens

o   Coccidiosis causes considerable economic loss in the poultry industry. Chickens are susceptible to at least 11 species of coccidia.  All wild birds carry Coccidia.

·        As your chicks grow, provide them with more space. This will reduce cannibalism, provide an area for them to exercise and reduce the chance of disease.

·         Chickens will start laying eggs on average between 4-6 months. 

·         Molting generally begins after their 1st year.

·         For great information on raising birds: http://poultry.purinamills.com/#

·         For your most frequently asked questions, check out: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/chicken-faqs-the-frequent-asked-questions-of-raising-chickens
You can also check out our blog at: www.skagitfarmerssupply.blogspot.com

Baby Chicks7 Baby Chicks and Ducks

Happy Groundhog's Day!